About me
Introduction
Background
Cultural Significance
Arrival of Olive Agriculture in Andalusia
The Islamic Conquest
How Spain's Entrance into the EU affect Andalusian Olive Agriculture
Lessons of Andalusia's Agricultural Transformation
Conclusion
My name is Salim El Khishin, and I am a 4th year undergraduate student majoring in International Business and Psychology at UC San Diego. I am Russian-Lebanese. I was born in Russia, raised in Dubai, UAE, and moved to the US in August 2017. Initially, I lived in Irvine, California, but recently my family and I moved to San Diego. The picture you see is me in Seville, which is a city in the South of Spain in the province of Andalusia. Exploring Andalusia inspired me to delve into its history and its connection to olive oil.
Introduction
Called “Liquid Gold” by Homer in The Iliad and The Odyssey and pretty much a mandatory part of every person’s diet in the Mediterranean, olive oil and the story of how Andalusia came to be the global capital of its production warrants an exploration to understand olive oil’s cultural significance and the evolution of agriculture throughout history. The growth of Andalusia's olive oil production to become responsible for 30-40% of the entire world's olive oil production is a story that can encompass many different topics: From the initial development of olive oil agriculture, to the interaction with the moors, and most importantly with Spain’s entrance into the EU and the introduction of mass mono-crop style of agriculture; Andalusia has been an important player in the world of olive trees and olive oil production. The analysis and evaluation of how Andalusia has been affected by being transformed into the global heart of olive oil production will bring to light key pros and cons in regards to modern mass production of food and explore the significance of olive oil agriculture and olive oil throughout history.
From my point of view, olive oil has been an iconic staple of the Mediterranean since antiquity and the exploration of its history can help us understand much about the region and the development of agriculture within it. Speaking specifically about mass industrial mono-cropping agricultural practices, I feel that we as a species do not need to be so non-cooperative with the natural world around us just to feed ourselves. Finding harmony with our food production and the environment is key. From the initial development of olive oil agriculture, to the interaction with the moors, and most importantly with Spain’s entrance into the EU and the introduction of mass mono-crop style of agriculture, the story of how Andalusia became the global heart of olive oil production has many poignant and relevant topics to discuss in the context of the issues of our current world food system.
Background
Olive oil has always been the premier staple fat in the Mediterranean, and its use in many aspects of people’s daily lives in the past and present range from salad dressing, to soap, to lubricant, to a sacred offering, and many other day to day uses warrant a detailed exploration of its cultural importance and its agricultural production history. Olive agriculture’s spread across the region can help us explore and understand how out of all places specifically Andalusia came to dominate olive oil’s production worldwide. It is a well-known issue to the agricultural experts within the region that the mass mono-cropping agriculture used in Andalusia to produce so much olive oil is responsible for desertification and environmental erosion (Infobase, 2019, 42:00-43:00).
Cultural Significance
To start with its most valuable characteristic and its culinary value, olive oil is the staple oil of the Mediterranean: it was and still is used in cooking, salads, food preservation, as a condiment, etc. From my personal experience of taking a class on the history of Barcelona, I know that olive oil was used in the making of a fish sauce called garum during the Roman times. This is all without even mentioning the health benefits of olive oil that almost every Mediterranean civilization recognized and praised. Olive oil is one of the healthiest fats a human can consume, being a great source of monounsaturated fats, antioxidants, and vitamins. Nowadays, it is widely known that olive oil provides great benefits for heart health and long lifespans (Trichopoulou, 2000, p. 454).
This mosaic displays the ingredients used in the making of Garum, an olive oil based fish sauce.
Other than its health benefits when consumed, olive oil was also widely praised since antiquity for its health benefits in medicinal use, often in the form of ointments to deal with skin conditions, treatments of wounds such as cuts and bruises, and to help deal with sore throats. During the Islamic golden age, the famous philosopher Ibn Sina (Avicenna) in one of his works called The Canon of Medicine recorded instances where olive oil was used to aid skin diseases, digestion, respiratory complications, fevers, etc. Today, the perception of olive oil as a medicine is on the decline as most people see olive oil as something that provides health and medicinal benefits mostly by form of consumption.
Other than its use for culinary and health benefits, there is another aspect that is also on the decline in the modern times, which is olive oil’s cosmetic use. In antiquity, it was often used in perfumes and moisturizers because olive oil and fats in general hold aromas and have moisturizing qualities. This was done by infusing olive oil with herbs and flowers. Another use of staple fats in civilizations is in the making of soap, and olive oil being the Mediterranean’s staple fat consequently led to it often being used to make soap. Most likely the most well-known would be Aleppo soap that was made from olive oil, lye, and laurel oil. Aleppo soap is around 2,000 years old, and Aleppo is thought to be one of the world’s first soap production sites. The successor of Aleppo soap would be Castile soap, which is not so popular in pop-history today compared to Aleppo soap but instead enjoyed more popularity in medieval Europe. Castile soap differed in the fact that it didn’t have laurel oil as a signature ingredient, it just simply had a base of olive oil, lye, and any additional plant oils.
Another common use of staple fats was as a lighting oil, and, as expected, there is evidence of Mediterranean civilizations, such as the Greeks, Egyptians, and Romans, using olive oil in lamps for lighting; another example of this is in Jewish menorah lamps. A modern day example of unconventional use of olives would be the use of olive pits as a biofuel. Many plants in Spain, especially Andalusia, have specialised in turning olive waste from olive agriculture into biofuel for energy and heating (Infobase, 2019, 43:00-46:30). A more conventional modern day non-culinary use case would be to use olive oil to lubricate door hinges, polish furniture, etc. Early on in its history, olive oil was already being used in more than just food and medicine. The Greeks used to use it to anoint kings and warriors (Boardman, 2001, p. 76). The Romans also practiced using olive oil, especially Andalusian olive oil due to its highly esteemed quality, in rituals such as anointing, religious ceremonies, and as an offering to gods (Butcher, 2003, p. 98).
In the Islam and the muslim world, the olive tree is considered a blessed plant and the consumption and use of olive oil on hair and skin is praised and recognized as beneficial for people’s health. In Andalusian Christian traditions, olive oil is used in rituals and ceremonies such as baptism and confirmation. The Andalusian Christian community and olive oil also have a strong linkage because, as previously mentioned, monasteries were a significant part of the olive cultivation of Andalusia following the reconquista (Hitchcock, 2014, p. 73). In modern times, the cultural significance of olive oil in Andalusia can be seen in their annual olive carnival and olive pit spitting competitions, where the people of the south of Spain come together to celebrate the olive in many forms (Infobase, 2019, 13:00-15:30). Even in modern Andalusia, people baptize their children in olive oil shortly after they are born, preserving the use of olive oil in religious rituals (Infobase, 2019, 26:00-27:00).
In terms of food, people’s breakfast or snack in the region is often bread with olive oil drizzled on it. In terms of dishes, all the salads made and eaten are almost always dressed with olive oil, a notable salad from the region is Pipirrana. Other dishes, which centrally integrate olive oil into the food, would be the many soups of the region, such as Gazpacho, Salmorejo, and Ajo Blanco.
Arrival of Olive Agriculture in Andalusia
Olive trees were first domesticated in the Levant area, which is the land of modern-day Israel, Palestine, Lebanon, and Syria, around 4000-3000 BCE. The first places to make olive oil an important part of their economy was Egypt and Crete (Mazar, 1992, p. 128). The people who spread this staple of the Eastern Mediterranean to the west were the Phoenicians. The Phoenicians came from the Levant area, but you could often find them outside their homeland, as they were famous for their trade networks and colonies which spanned all over the Mediterranean. It was the Phoenicians who established colonies in Spain, specifically the modern-day Southern Spanish cities of Cádiz and Málaga, and brought the domestication of olive trees and production of olive oil to what is today the Southern Spanish province of Andalusia. However, the transformation of Spain and specifically Andalusia into a key producer of olive oil didn’t fully happen until the Romans took Spain away from the Phoenicians and developed olive oil production on a porto-industrial scale and turned Spain into one of the key olive oil suppliers to Rome. The Romans turned the province of Baetica, which includes modern day Andalusia, into the largest exporter of olive oil to Rome. Roman engineering led to increased yields in the province by improving irrigation and Roman olive presses; olive oil from Baetica was praised for its quality among the Romans and, like in Greece and most Mediterranean countries, was used in medicine, food, and rituals (Butcher, 2003, pp. 98-141). After the fall of Rome, production continued, but trade and exports declined up until the Islamic conquest of Spain and Portugal.
The Islamic Conquest
The Islamic conquest, AKA the Moorish conquest, led to the introduction of significantly more advanced irrigation techniques, such as canals “acequias”, cisterns “aljibes”, and crop rotation (Watson, 1983, p. 34). The Spanish word for oil “aceite”, comes from the Arabic word for olive oil “az-zayt”, displaying the deep influence the Moors had on Spanish society and language through their revolutionization of olive oil agriculture within Spain (Hitchcock, 2014, p. 88). Agricultural manuals from the time described new processing methods in the pruning, grafting, and pressing of the olives. Many of these methods shaped modern olive oil production. Under Islamic rule, Al-Andalus, which is Andalusia’s namesake and includes the modern day province of Andalusia, regained its status as a key exporter of olive oil again; this time within the Islamic world (Watson, 1983, p. 34). The Christian Reconquista and the new Christian Kingdoms that ruled Spain encouraged olive agriculture and over the next couple of centuries gradually expanded their export market to the Americas, where olive oil became a staple in Spanish colonial diets as well. An interesting note to make is that, because a lot of monasteries kept olive groves, a big part of the olive production was continued and improved in monasteries (Glick, 1970, p. 102). The industrial revolution and railroads expanded Spain's olive oil market to France, Italy, and Britain (Ringrose, 1996, p. 231). Throughout all these developments, Andalusia remained the largest olive oil producing region in Spain. The Spanish Civil War and the Franco era led to a dip in exports; this was followed by Spain’s liberalization and consequent entry into the EU, which led to a massive increase in production and transformed Spain and Andalusia in the heart of global olive oil production with 30-40% of the entire world’s olive oil coming from the province.
How Spain’s entrance into the EU affected Andalusian Olive Agriculture
Table 1. This chart shows the rapid growth of olive oil production throughout the last 60 years.
In the first couple years of this graph we can see the more or less stagnant growth during the Franco dictatorship which ended in 1975. The effects of Spain’s entry into the European Union in 1986 can be seen with the rapid growth of olive oil production about 10 years later. The reason production exploded after joining the European Union is because of the implementation of mass mono-cropping agriculture that prioritizes output over everything else.
Table 2. This chart shows olive oil production numbers of all countries from the last 60 years.
When compared to other countries, we can really see the true extent of Spain’s dominance on the olive oil market. The total tonnage of olive oil production that Spain has is more than 4 times the second place olive oil producer (Italy). In terms of absolute change, Spain has almost 10 times more of an increase than the 2nd place most increased absolute change in olive oil production (Morocco). Another aspect to look at is a comparison of Spain in the past to Spain in the present. We can see that Spain and Italy were always on top in the olive oil market and production even back in the 1960s, the difference is in their growth over the last 60 years. While Spain more than quadrupled its olive oil production, Italy’s production decreased.
Table 3. Number of olive oil mills by autonomous communities in Spain (year 2021)
Source: Prepared by the authors based on information from the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food (MAPA).
This figure shows that the industrialization and mass mono-cropping agriculture policies implemented in Spain have affected the distribution of olive oil mills in Spain. The disparity in the number of olive oil mills shows the complete dominance of Andalusia in relation to the other provinces in regards to olive oil production in Spain. As you can see, Andalusia has more than 3 times the production of the 2nd province with the most olive oil production, so the disparity is quite big. The historical journey of the province of Andalusia that we explored earlier explains why this province out of all of the rest ended up in such a position.
The picture that these charts paint is the transformation of Andalusia’s and Spain’s subsistence agriculture, that most every country had before industrialization of agriculture and the Green Revolution, into confidently dominating the olive oil market through an explosion in production by means of mass mono-cropping agriculture. In a documentary about Andalusia, a soil specialist whose family are natives of the provinces recounts how this agricultural transformation has changed the use of olive trees within society: “The olive tree for them, for that generation and the ones before, meant much more than just oil production, everything in the olive tree was a source of income. For example, with the oil of low quality, you used to make soap; with the trunk and the large branches, you could make small pieces of furniture. With the rest of the wood, fuel, olive groves were also places where you took animals to graze” (Infobase, 2019, 6:00-8:00). From this quote we can see how the market framework imposed by the European Union onto the subsistence agriculture of the locals changed the way people in the region interact with olive trees; now they are seen as mainly existing and being grown for the sake of oil production.
However, it is this same market framework which brought the exponential growth of olive trees productivity to the region. The new technology and skilled labor that the European Union has developed in the region geared towards olive oil production has also greatly increased not only the quantity of olive oil, but also the quality of olive oil. This transformation of agriculture could not have come at a better time for the country. This is because the economic stagnation during the Franco era had left the country in an economic crisis after his death. So when Spain joined the European Union and the EU made large investments into agriculture, especially olive plantations, and breathed new life into the economy of Spain it saved them from the economic crisis they were facing.
What lessons can be learned from Andalusia’s agricultural transformation
The most pressing concern surrounding the use of mass mono-cropping agriculture is desertification. About 20% of Andalusia’s landmass is used for olive agriculture, and the problem of desertification has already become critical in many locations within this 20%. 20% of Andalusia’s landmass is equal to about half of Switzerland’s landmass, so the sheer scale of the landmass at risk of desertification is already cause for a lot of concern. The lesson to learn from this risk of desertification, is the methods to prevent such a risk. The risk comes from the development of olive mono-crop agriculture in places where there was none before and also the lack of other vegetation in these mono-crop olive plantations that leaves the soil exposed. This lack of vegetation exposes the soil to water damage from the rain and prevents the water from being absorbed into the soil near where it landed. This leads to rainwater forming streams and collecting in a nearby river; this process can pretty much be described as manmade accelerated erosion.
This means that the solution is to have vegetation cover the exposed and bare soil in these plantations, as has been done for decades before entry into the EU. This transformation of agricultural land began even before Spain’s entry into the European Union; however, the EU definitely accelerated and encouraged this development. Another reason this was allowed to happen in the first place is because this transformation was done without the involvement of the local agricultural communities. This agricultural transformation has resulted in more frequent and more intense floods because the land is not absorbing as much rainwater as it should be, and the rivers are collecting it instead (Infobase, 2019, 30:00-37:00).
In the O’odham reading, traditional O’odham farms and farming strategies with social and economic pressures that were worsened by government policy, could not survive the profit seeking forces of the corporate model of farming (Nabhan, 1998, p. 174). In the Andalusian case, small local farmers had been powerless to deny the agricultural giants and their mass mono-cropping olive plantations, because the productivity benefits were simply too profitable for the country to pass up, no matter the risk of desertification. This is without mentioning how beneficial it would be to empower the smallholder farmers in regards to moving towards a more sustainable food system by improving value chains and incomes. The smallholder farmers already have been using the techniques that prevent desertification in their farms for decades, government empowerment would help serve them to improve upon these techniques and better manage their farms to turn away from the mass mono-cropping agriculture of the agricultural giants (Sachs & Ban Ki-Moon, pp. 351-352). The lesson to be learned in regards to this case is that investment and empowerment into smallholder farmers instead of the allowing of development of mass mono-cropping agriculture would be better for the development of sustainable agriculture and less harsh on the environment.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the culmination of thousands of years of agricultural advancements is visible in Andalusia's rise as the world’s foremost olive oil producer in a complex story shaped by the history of olive agriculture, cultural prominence of olive oil within the Mediterranean, Moorish innovations, and industrial transformations that pose environmental dangers to the province. Understanding this evolution provides valuable insights into the sustainability and future of global food production. Hopefully, through an analysis of the role of this southern Spanish province within the rich cultural and agricultural history of the olive tree and olive oil, we can learn to feed more people while being more in harmony with nature.
Works Cited
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